A Colonial Taste of Mexico
You are greeted at the door with a huge spiderweb on the front door, Jack-O-Lanterns covering each room, and orange string lights plastered across the yellow walls. Decorated as though you have walked into your welcoming grandmother’s living room, it is filled with festive Halloween decor this October. In the center of one room, there sits an immense fireplace adorned with burgundy flower tiles. It doesn’t feel out of place to enjoy your chips and guacamole, instead, the feeling of comfort rushes over you.
Hidden in Washington Square a block from Thames Street, is Perro Salado, the Mexican-style restaurant concealed in Decatur House, an 18th-century colonial Newport home. Looking into the rustic windows of what was once home to Captain Stephen Decatur you find a lively dining room packed with the noise of chatter. Owners Andi Johnson and brothers Dan and Russell Hall have opened the doors to many for over a decade on Charles Street. Combining the colonial atmosphere of Newport with fresh new Mexican cuisine, they are one of a kind.
Grazing over their menu, Perro Salado or “Salty Dog” offers a variety of dishes. The taqueria side of the menu showcases the cores of Mexican dishes. Quesadillas ($14), Tostada ($14), Tacos with your choice of toppings ($14) and Burrito Bowls ($14). Apart from dishes that may satisfy your craving for Mexican, Perro Salado also offers unique combinations that might have you craving something with more of a twist. The Asparagus Mushroom Tacos ($16) bring an array of flavors together with the help of sauteed oysters, cilantro pesto, and queso fresco on naan. Their sticky pork ribs ($17) seem to be a big hit with their sweet and spicy tanginess. When ready for dessert Perro Salado has more than enough to offer! Try their berry or pumpkin flan ($9), a creamy and sweet baked custard smothered in caramel. Or a twist on a traditional with their guava cheesecake ($9).
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With no struggle with parking (which is surprising in Newport), my friend and I found ourselves walking through the dimly lit street towards the all-black home, Perro Salado. However, on a Monday, the restaurant was filled with noise coming from every direction inside. The main starter of the table was the classic tortilla chips and guacamole, which cost $8. With high standards, the guacamole disappointed the table. A few tiny crisp pumpkin seeds, which are labeled as toasted pipians on the menu, are sprinkled on top. Two tostones, salted fried green plantains flattened to perfection, lay beside the guacamole. Their tortilla chips had just the right amount of salt on top, enough to mask the unseasoned guacamole when paired together. The night began slowly while looking over the menu, with no rush we were left to enjoy our basket of chips. Since Monday is claimed as Nacho Night, it was only right to try their classic nachos with the chicken tinga. The shredded chicken mixed with a sauce of tomatoes, onion, adobo sauce, and spices, was quite dry. The nachos were topped with guacamole, pico de gallo, black beans, queso, and jalapenos on the side.
With a handful of choices, Perro Salado gives the options of chicken, pork, and beef, and the vegan options of sauteed vegetables or spicy tofu sofrita. However, on the main dishes section of their menu, they showcase the $16 fish tacos. As our highly attentive server made her way to our table, the fish tacos and the classic enchilada were placed in front of our eyes. With still much room to continue eating, the two beer-battered fish tacos were upsetting with a bland taste. The measly amount of creamy pink chipotle mayo drizzled on top was the dish's only hope of salvation. So much so that I would recommend ordering a side of it to help achieve any flavor. The classic enchilada which was $16 was served with a tender braised beef baked with a mild red chile salsa, cheese, and a side of rice and beans. With every forkful of tortilla, you were granted a big amount of beef. Although not stingy with meat portions, the rice seemed as though it did not retain any seasoning.
So what kept us in a restaurant that seemed almost entirely too average? Their house margaritas! Although I wouldn’t return for the food, Perro Salado does an excellent job with its $11 margaritas, offering distinct flavors such as prickly pear, spicy cucumber, blood orange, cilantro-jalapeno, and passion fruit. You would be enticed to order a whole pitcher for $55 after just one sip.
Perro Salado offers Mexican-inspired dishes and is located at 19 Charles St. Newport, Rhode Island. Opened Monday – Friday from 5-9 p.m. and Saturday from 4- 9 p.m. Brunch is exclusively on Sunday from 11 a.m.- 3 p.m. Reservations are recommended and can be contacted at (401) 619-4777.